Could this be the end of harmful routine vaccines & a change in rabies vaccine regulations?!

Yipee! There’s wonderful news for us animal lovers. A second study has been completed that proves a rabies vaccine gives protection for at least 7 yrs. The Rabies Challenge Study is working to prove the vaccine’s long-term duration of protection in dogs and to establish the world’s first canine rabies titer standard. Hopefully, over-vaccination can be stopped and rabies vaccination statutes changed. Vaccination causes a host of damage… brain inflammation, immune system suppression, auto-immune diseases, seizures, cancer, behavior problems, etc.

Is There Hope for Rabies Law Reform?

These are also must read articles: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/why-vaccinate-your-dog/

Curing rabies/distemper/parvovirus naturally by Juliette de Bairacli Levy: http://onibasu.com/archives/bv/788.html

Vitamin C kills any virsus: http://www.vaclib.org/intro/rabies.htm

Reproduced with permission of www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com

Heartworm/Fleas/Pests – info, treatment & natural preventatives

Spring & summer are the times of year when conventional vets & many groomers will push you to put your pets on flea, tick & heartworm “preventatives.” These aren’t truly preventatives, but are toxic chemicals & pesticides that work only by killing the parasites after they’ve bitten your pet. The toxins from these products are absorbed thru the animal’s skin, get into their blood stream & are filtered thru their liver. Since business is very slow for some vets, this is another way to make money off of unknowing owners who think they’re doing what’s best for their beloved dog.

The manufacturers of these products & conventional vets tell you the products have been tested & are safe for use on your pets. The truth is they have only been tested for 30-90 days which is never long enough to show the accumulated damage done to the liver and/or other organs. Topical products are put on the animals’ skin, absorbed into the bloodstream & processed through the liver. They are very damaging & dangerous; animals have had serious health problems from them & also died from just 1 application. You’ll find info on this by doing an online search. They’ve caused seizures, kidney/liver problems/failure, cancer & death. When a warning label tells us to use gloves and/or wash our hands thoroughly after application, it should never be applied to an animal. It’s telling us this product is very toxic.

Truth, Omissions & Profit of Heartworm: http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2009/05/13/heartworm-medication-safety/

http://www.thewholedog.org/heartworm.html

http://www.acreaturecomfort.com/heartworminfo.htm – explains what must occur for a dog to get heartworm from a mosquito; it’s not easy

http://healthydogs.org/heartworm/

http://www.wondercide.com/content/natural-heartworm-prevention-dr-falconer-qa/ – by Dr. Will Falconer, Holistic Vet in TX

Veterinarian Speaks Out About Heartworm: http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/veterinarian-speaks-out-about-heartworm-preventatives.html

700 Pet Owners Say Trifexis Killed Their Dogs: http://www.wsbtv.com/news/news/local/owners-blame-700-dog-deaths-trifexis/nb5B4/ – In this article, the owner of 1 killed dog researched the product & learned that since Trifexis hit the market, every 36 hours, a pet owner reported that Trifexis killed their dog.

Ivermectin is very toxic, damaging to the liver & is believed to be a factor in thyroid problems for dogs. Conventional vets are using fear tactics to sell heartworm “preventatives” yet the best preventative is for dogs to have a strong, healthy immune system. This is achieved by feeding a raw diet & not over-vaccinating the pet. Ivermectin causes liver damage when used repeatedly. Once the liver is too badly damaged, it cannot heal or regenerate. The animal will die from liver failure.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, 65% of adverse drug reactions and 48% of all reported deaths resulting from drug reactions are caused by heartworm preventatives. Revolution/Ivermectin may be responsible for thyroid problems. A study is to be conducted on this.

Dangerous Ivermectin: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/03/06/ivermectin.aspx?e_cid=20130306_PetsNL_art_1&utm_source=petnl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20130306

Natural heartworm preventatives info is below. Remember, feeding your dogs/cats a natural raw diet & not over-vaccinating means their immune system is stronger. They don’t give off an odor that attracts pests/parasites. They’re also able to handle the occasional parasite.

http://www.theherbsplace.com/Heartworm_Prevention_sp_104.html

http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/ahealth2.htm#heartworm

http://search.freefind.com/servlet/freefind?id=9609505&pageid=r&mode=ALL&query=heartworm

http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2009/06/16/heartworm-preventative-options/

http://www.preciouspets.org/articles/natural-heartworm-prevention.htm

Natural pest preventative – Tea Tree Oil & Lavender Oil spray should be used at all times, whether your dog is on the treatment, maintenance or prevention programs. Make up a mist and spray it on your dog frequently – particularly before going outside. I recommend you keep the spray bottle at the door, and spray your dog both before s/he goes outside and as s/he comes back inside. The essential oil spray mist is made of 1 cup of distilled water, 12 drops of castile liquid soap (peppermint is excellent) with 4 drops of Tea Tree Oil and 8 drops of Lavender Oil in it. Shake it well each time before spraying. The combination of Tea Tree, Lavender & Peppermint Oils is great for repelling insects, especially fleas & mosquitoes. You can even use it on yourself! Sprouts & Whole Foods Markets carry homeopathic remedies, herbal extracts, & natural essential oils. Amazon.com & other online stores also carry them. Spray it onto your hands & rub onto your dog’s head/face to be safer – NEVER spray anything directly on their head or face. Other essential oils that can be used on dogs are cedar wood, geranium, citronella, eucalyptus, & peppermint. Store in a cool, dark location away from electricity, money, other scented items, & heat.

http://www.thewholedog.org/heartworm.html – contains another all natural spray recipe

http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/heartworm.html

http://www.wolfcreekranch.net/heartworm_free.html – http://www.heartwormfree.com/

This website shows the reported number of heartworm cases for LA County for 2005-2011. For 2011, there were 2-3 reported cases of dogs who were born in CA. See the chart on the right on their website. Our vet believes the hype of heartworm is just another way big pharma & many vets use to make money off something that’s not needed. http://www.publichealth.lacounty.gov/vet/heartworm.htm

Warnings about Comfortis, Heartguard, Trifexis: http://www.chazhound.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103600 – http://news.vin.com/VINNews.aspx?articleId=18763

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/-20898-1.html?ET=wholedogjournal:e120550:50271840a:&st=email
Here’s info on natural flea, tick & heartworm prevention from a Naturopathic Veterinarian, Dr. Jeannie Thomason:
http://www.thewholedog.org/heartworm.html
http://www.thewholedog.org/artfleas.html

Natural heartworm preventative: http://www.thewholedog.org/id33.html#HWP

Alternatives Dr. Karen Becker (holistic vet) recommends include:

A safe, natural pest deterrent that is chemical-free, like Natural Flea and Tick Defense. This product contains no synthetic chemicals — only all-natural, safe Brazilian oils and pure water. It has a pleasant smell, is non-sticky, and repels not only fleas and ticks, but also flies and mosquitoes.
Cedar oil (specifically manufactured for pet health) – Cedarcide.com
Natural, food-grade diatomaceous earth
Fresh garlic — work with your holistic vet to determine a safe amount for your pet’s body weight (small dogs like Yorkies – 1/2 of 1 piece/segment of the garlic clove is fine to give daily during the flea/pest season); use 5 days per week & take a break for 2…or give for 2 weeks & break for 1 week. Garlic is not to be fed to them daily without a break.
Feed a species correct diet (raw meat & bones for dogs/cats); the healthier your dog/cat is, the less appealing they are to parasites. A species appropriate diet supports a strong immune system.
Bathing and brushing your pet regularly and performing frequent full-body inspections to check for parasite activity.
Making sure your indoor and outdoor environments are unfriendly to pests.

Neem seed oil is an amazing natural insecticide/pesticide for use both on the dogs & in the yard: http://www.discoverneem.com/neem-oil-for-dogs.html. It kills lice, fleas, mites (also the eggs) & other parasites.

Non-poisonous flea control (grapefruit seed extract): http://www.thedogplace.org/PARASITES/Non-Poisonous-Flea-Control_Martin.asp More uses for GSE: http://www.natural-dog-health-remedies.com/gse-for-dogs.html

Drug free heartworm prevention & treatment by Dr. Will Falconer, excellent homeopathic vet that we use & recommend: http://vitalanimal.com/drugfreeheartworm/

Dr. Pitcairn’s homeopathic treatment for heartworm: For the last three to four years, I have been using a mixture of nosodes for prophylaxis with more faith than research to rely on. However, results are satisfactory. Based on my clinical experience, I think I can safely say that protection with nosodes is as reliable as with vaccinations and with the added advantage of few unwelcome side effects. I based my method on the available literature. As already presented in Dr. Shepherd’s writings, apparently the higher potencies give longer protection. I use a method of ascending potencies — from 30 C to 1M. My protocol is like thiis:

One dose each week, of 30C potency mixture, for a total of three treatments.
Wait for two weeks.
One dose every three weeks, of 200C potency mixture, for a total of three treatments.
Wait for one month.
One dose of 1M potency mixture, to be repeated every four months for the life of the animal.

Using this same method, I have also attempted protection against Canine Heartworm using a nosode of microfilaria infested blood originally prepared by Dr. Stephen Tobin of Connecticut. Though my numbers are limited, I have found 100% protection for about 20 dogs that live in heartworm areas. Unfortunately my follow-up is only for the first 18 months or so, and I have not been able to extend this study to more animals.

——————–
You can purchase homeopathic remedies & nosodes at many locations online; these are 2 sources we’ve used: www.elixirs.com & Amazon.com. The first website has lots of great info for both animals & humans. Sprout’s, Mothers Markets, & Whole Foods also carry them. They’re much less expensive than drugs/conventional meds & are safe. To let you know how very effective homeopathy is, during the polio epidemic in Europe, there were 2 physicians who treated their patients only using homeopathy. They had 100% success. Their patients who already had polio when coming to the doctors for treatment, never had any permanent damage/disability or paralysis. Their patients who came for treatment before contracting polio, never got the disease. Nothing in conventional medicine has ever had a 100% success rate…or even near it.

Vaccine Exemption Letter

This link takes you to a vaccine exemption form that is acceptable in all 50 states: http://www.thedogplace.org/VACCINES/Rabies-exemption-form-states-2012.asp.

The following letter is one used by some California veterinarians and can be used as a sample to show to your own veterinarian when asking for any vaccine exemption (rabies and/or all others). It can also be used for any situation where your animal might be required to have a health certificate. Please remember that vaccines are ONLY to be given to perfectly healthy animals. Animals who are ill, have ANY health condition, have ever had ANY reaction to a vaccination, are on a special diet, medication, homeopathic remedies, have abnormal blood work, have internal or external parasites/pests, or are seniors that have been vaccinated in the past, are NEVER to be vaccinated or re-vaccinated. This is stated in the literature that comes with every vial of vaccine made. Please keep this letter in case you need it in the future. If your vet won’t give you a vaccine exemption letter for an animal who shouldn’t be vaccinated, find another vet who understands the seriousness of the situation & who will give you one. We use & recommend homeopathic veterinarians as they have much greater education & understanding of health issues, nutrition/food, & the damage caused by vaccination. If your animal has already been vaccinated, ask if your vet will issue a vaccine exemption; remind them there is NO scientific proof that more than 1 vaccine is needed for a lifetime. Your vet probably is not even aware of this so don’t let your animal be harmed because of ignorance. Homeopathic vets are the most educated and the most likely to give a vaccine exemption because they know & understand the facts. We recommend the following homeopathic vets:

Dr. Patricia Jordan in Asheville, NC – http://dr-jordan.com/
Dr. Will Falconer in Austin, TX – http://vitalanimal.com/
Others are listed here: http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/AnimalWellness/Vet-List.aspx – Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy: http://theavh.org/referrals/ – Graduates of Dr. Richard Pitcairn’s Animal Natural Health Center: http://www.drpitcairn.com/referrals/anhc-referrals/

Any vet who vaccinates an animal who is ill or has a health condition can be sued as it is against vaccine manufacturer instructions. This link tells about the veterinary vaccine class action lawsuit: http://www.thedogplace.org/VACCINES/Class-Action-Suit-0505_Rogers.asp.

Date ____________

Patient _______________

Guardian ____________________

To Whom It May Concern:

This letter is to verify my recommendation that this animal should not be given vaccinations due to the risk of creating or exacerbating illnesses in this animal. This animal is either a breed type or an individual who has a tendency to develop illness as the result of the immune system stress created by vaccination. (or….This animal has a health condition [allergies, kidney disease, liver disease, seizures/epilepsy, etc.] that will be exacerbated if vaccinated.)

Recent studies have shown the relationship of routine vaccinations to seizures, brain inflammation (encephalitis), and many immune system related diseases, such as allergic dermatitis, food allergies, autoimmune thyroiditis (hypothyroidism), decreased resistance to infections, blood dyscrasias and general immune system suppression have been related to vaccination.

It is my opinion that the above-mentioned animal has a risk of illness if given vaccinations.

Sincerely,

_____________________, DVM

Vaccines & Their Damage, Part 2

For those who choose to vaccinate (more & more say NO to all vaccines), the latest recommendation from homeopathic/natural vets & veterinary immunologists, is “one and done”…they advise waiting until the dog or cat is 16-22 weeks old before any vaccination; give only 1 vaccine at a time (parvovirus only, then distemper only) – NO combination vaccines like DHPP; wait at least 4 weeks between each vaccination (longer is better if you can). The parvovirus vaccine is often given first, with the distemper vaccine given 4-8 weeks after that….all at 1/4 dose. Rabies is best given after 1 year of age, if possible. If not, 6 months of age is the youngest age recommended as this is when their immune system matures. The longer you can wait, the better. All vaccines are given 1 at a time & apart from anything else (grooming, dental, surgery, etc). You don’t want to stress the immune system at the same time it’s being inundated with any vaccine.

Dr. Ron Schultz also advises “one & done”. He’s a world-famous veterinary immunologist (immune system specialist) & is considered to be THE expert in this field & the most knowledgeable. He’s 1 of the veterinary immunologists conducting the Rabies Challenge Study. If vaccinating, give ONLY 1 vaccine of these for a lifetime; at least 1 month apart, starting at age 16 to 22 weeks of age, 1/4 dose only; each vaccine done separately – parvo, distemper, rabies. NO other vaccines; NO boosters or repeat vaccinations are needed when vaccinated at 16 weeks or older. There is NO scientific proof that refutes this. If you cannot find parvo & distemper as separate vaccines; Intervet Progard Puppy contains parvo & distemper together. Again – only 1/4 dose for dogs/cats, no matter what their size. Remember, ALL vaccines cause harm & brain inflammation; there is no safe vaccine.

DISTEMPER (MLV – means modified live virus)
Initial (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy 16-20 weeks & up is best. Another distemper vaccine is NOT needed if the pup was 16 weeks or more at the time of the first vaccine.
Re-Administration Interval: None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 / 15 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Comments: Can have numerous negative effects, especially when given too young 10 weeks & younger.

PARVOVIRUS (MLV)
Initial (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy 16-20 weeks & up is best. Another parvovirus vaccine is NOT needed if the pup was 16 weeks or more at the time of the first vaccine.
Re-Administration Interval: None needed.
Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. Comments: At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic. Keep pups inside at home when very young. Numerous negative effects are likely when given too young (10 weeks or under) but it also happens at any age.

RABIES (killed virus)
Never give under 6 months of age. Natural & homeopathic vets advises to wait until the dog is 1 year old or more for this first rabies vaccine if you can. Do NOT give with any other vaccine, drug, treatment, procedure, or surgery. Give at least 8 weeks after any other vaccine or treatment/surgery. Conventional veterinary protocol for the rabies vaccine is: 1 year after the dog received their initial rabies vaccine, give a killed 3 year rabies vaccine (give at least 4 weeks after Distemper/Parvo; 8 weeks is better).
Re-Administration Interval: 3 yr. vaccine by regulation in California; never give to any animal with a health condition. Get a vaccine exemption letter from vet to give to local animal control if you license your dog. Vaccine instructions from the manufacturers state they are ONLY to be given to healthy animals. There is NO difference between the 1 yr & the 3 yr varieties; yet the first rabies vaccine is only given a 1 yr effective label.

VACCINES NOT RECOMMENDED FOR DOGS!

DISTEMPER & PARVO @ 9 weeks or younger
Not recommended. At this age, maternal antibodies from the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% of puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.

CORONA
Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 weeks of age; 2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years. 3.) Mild self-limiting disease; 4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable. 5. It's impossible for a dog over 6 wks of age to contract Corona virus (proven by a vaccine study). LEPTOSPIROSIS Not recommended 1) An average of only 12 cases are reported annually in California; 2) Negative effects very common. 3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. There is no cross-protection of serovars. There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection; 4) Risks far outweigh benefits. LYME Not recommended 1) Low risk in California; 2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states & Wisconsin; 3) Possible negative effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin. 4) Risks outweigh possible benefit. BORDATELLA (Intranasal) (killed) Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required. - Protects against only 2 of the possible 8+ causes of kennel cough. Duration of immunity 6 months. If you must give this, use the intranasal type, not the vaccination. GIARDIA Not recommended - Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies. Perform a vaccine antibody titer test for distemper & parvovirus 1 month to 1 year after the dog received the vaccine for these diseases. A titer test is done using a sample of the animal's blood. If you vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law it can ONLY be given to healthy animals. When an animal has a health condition (ANY health condition, including fleas/ticks/pests, diarrhea, cough, tummy upset, etc), a written vaccine exemption waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. See www.rabieschallengefund.org. PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNITY - "Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus (MLV) vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces a protection which is good for the life of the pet (i.e: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not "boosted" nor are more memory cells induced." If your dog or cat was vaccinated at any time after 6 months of age, it does NOT need more vaccines; it has lifetime protection. Not only are annual boosters for parvo, distemper & the other modified live vaccines (MLV) unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions & immune-mediated hemolytic anemia. "There is NO scientific documentation to back up label claims for 1, 3 or 5 year administration of MLV vaccines." Puppies receive antibodies through their mother's milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system. Parvo & distemper vaccines are best/safer given at 16-22 weeks; 1/4 dose only. Dr. Dodds has stated that vaccines are made 10 times stronger than necessary. A vaccination given any time after 16 weeks of age provides lifetime protection. Pfizer performed an interesting field study in 1996 where they split vaccinated puppies into 2 groups. Group A received a single vaccination at 12 weeks & Group B received a first vaccine between 8 to 10 weeks, & a second at 12 weeks. When titers were measured, 100% of the puppies vaccinated once at 12 weeks were protected whereas only 94% of the puppies in Group B were protected – despite receiving 2 vaccines as opposed to 1. It appears that the second vaccine can interfere with the first vaccine. So vaccinating your puppy twice not only doubles his risk for adverse vaccine reactions, it appears to make vaccination less effective overall. Rabies is given separately when the dog is about 1 year old using the mercury free vaccine - all at 1/4 dose & separate from any other procedure. We run a titer test to check on the dog's immunity for all 3 vaccines (2 months to 1 year from when they received the vaccine we're testing for). If it shows any immune response, the vaccine was properly processed & the dog has immunity - that's it for their entire lifetime. There is NO scientific proof that repeat vaccination is needed or effective. There is NO scientific proof that vaccines are safe. Most people – & many conventional vets – mistakenly believe it takes more than 1 vaccination to create immunity in a puppy. This simply isn’t true. It only takes 1 vaccine to not only protect a puppy, but to protect him for life. After more than 40 years of testing immunity in thousands of dogs, Dr. Ronald Schultz (veterinary immunologist) has come to the following conclusion: “Only 1 dose of the modified-live canine ‘core’ vaccine, when administered at 16 weeks or older, will provide long lasting (many years to a lifetime) protection in a very high percentage of animals.” That very high percentage is nearly 100% (see http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/3-puppy-vaccination-mistakes-too-early-too-often-too-much/). Dogs vaccinated at age 16 weeks & older, NEVER need another vaccination. If you're concerned that an animal doesn't have immunity, have a titer test performed. This is recommended to be done 4-8 weeks after the dog received the vaccine you're checking on (distemper & parvo for 1 test; rabies for a separate titer test). It can be done at any time during their life if you have no vaccine history on the animal. This test will show you what immunity the animal has & only needs to be performed once during their lifetime if the results show the animal has ANY level of immune response. This will prove the vaccine was properly processed & the dog has lifetime coverage, so it never needs re-vaccination. Dr. Jean Dodds does titer tests for the lowest price we've found. Blood can be drawn by your vet, then taken or mailed to her office at: Dr. Jean Dodds - 11561 Salinaz Avenue, Garden Grove, CA 92843. Her phone number for this office is: Hemopet at 714-891-2022. Call for info on how to submit blood for a titer test; it needs to be kept cold. The email address is hemopet@hotmail.com. You'll save more money running the titer test once than re-vaccinating repeatedly & your animal will have better health, a longer life, a stronger immune system & less brain inflammation. There is now a 20 minute test that can be performed at your vet's clinic to determine if your dog has proper vaccine immunity levels for hepatitis, distemper & parvovirus. The results will tell you if your dog does or does not need to be vaccinated for these 3 diseases. The company is working on a similar test for rabies; currently it takes 3 weeks for titer test results. Below is more info on this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXEkSAEEvY0 - http://www.waycooldogs.com/vaccicheck-for-dogs-reducing-over-vaccination/ Please check out "www.therabieschallengefund.org" & send a donation if you also want to help the animals. Space for this study is being provided to them for free by one of America's universities. Dr. Schultz' video presentation "What Everyone Needs to Know About Canine Vaccines and Vaccination Programs." Dr. Schultz is a holistic veterinarian and a veterinary immunologist (same as Dr. Jean Dodds). http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2011/05/31/what-your-vet-didnt-tell-you-about-all-those-puppy-and-kitty-vaccines.aspx There's a total of 4 videos. Dr. Bob Rogers' website "New Vaccination Protocols" http://www.newvaccinationprotocols.com/ Please note that the left-hand menu links are often broken. You can access all sections of the slideshow by using the "Forward" and "Back" links at the bottom of each page though. A short FAQ on vaccines by Dr. Bob Rogers http://www.critteradvocacy.org/FAQ's.htm Jan Rasmusen - Author, Scared Poopless: The Straight Scoop on Dog Care WINNER, Ben Franklin Award for the Best Health Book of any kind - WINNER, USABookNews Award for the Best Pet Health Book Recommended by the Journal of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, Animal Wellness Magazine, the Animal Protection Institute and countless veterinarians www.Dogs4Dogs.com Watch our new videos on vaccination dangers: Rabies - http://www.dogs4dogs.com/truth4dogs.html - All vaccines - www.dogs4dogs.com/shots ** Vets issue animal vaccine warning ** Veterinary surgeons warn that pet owners are spending tens of millions of pounds on unnecessary vaccinations. < http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/2/hi/uk_news/3588457.stm >

This wonderful website has loads of great information on natural rearing for dogs: www.naturalrearing.com/. Brain inflammation, cells from other species in vaccines: “How Vaccines Affect Socialization and Behavior in Dogs”
Safe Vaccines?; Symptoms of Vaccine Damage;

Outrageous Vaccine Logic

What Vets Don’t Know about Vaccines
Vaccine Ingredients & Vaccine Secrets – http://healthwyze.org/index.php/component/content/article/60-vaccine-secrets.html

These links tell about the class action lawsuit regarding pet vaccines; it’s against the vaccine makers & veterinarians:

http://www.petsnmore.org/2012/09/vaccination-update-class-action-lawsuit.html
http://www.bark-n-blog.com/2005/06/17/pet-vaccine-lawsuit-and-legislation/
http://www.thedogplace.org/VACCINES/Class-Action-Suit-0505_Rogers.asp
http://www.pets-haven.com/pet_health_vaccinations.htm

Vaccines & Their Damage, Part 1

You need the FACTS on vaccines to make the best decision. Vaccines are the single most damaging thing done to animals (& people). There is NO safe vaccine & NO wellness in anyone that’s been vaccinated. All vaccines cause brain inflammation, immune system suppression & other damage. All vaccines contain toxic & carcinogenic ingredients, preservatives, disease, cells from other animal species, & more. They alter & damage the DNA. Just one vaccine can cause lifelong health and/or brain/behavior/mental problems. We’ve seen vaccine damage in every vaccinated animal we’ve owned or rescued.

Each generation of vaccinated animals/people is worse than the one before. We’re providing you with some of the facts on vaccines here. You’re the only one who can best determine what’s right for your animals. You won’t get the truth from the government, the scientific community, the CDC, FDA, pharmaceutical companies, or conventional medicine/vets. They’ll lose too much money if vaccination stops. For the pharmaceutical companies alone, it’s $27 BILLION dollars per year just for vaccine sales. There’s more for all the drugs used to treat the numerous problems the vaccines cause.

After decades of vaccination & re-vaccination, many veterinarians/medical doctors, scientists, & health experts (human & animal, conventional & natural) are opposed to ALL vaccination. Others believe the risk must be taken & only “core” vaccines should be given. After more than 37 years of pet ownership & more than 15 years of rescuing dogs, we’re also opposed to vaccination. We have NEVER seen a truly healthy vaccinated animal.

ALL 27 veterinary universities in the USA are now teaching & endorsing Dr. Jean Dodds’ vaccine protocol. These are “conventional” veterinary schools, NOT natural, homeopathic or holistic. They no longer teach or recommend yearly re-vaccination; they do still recommend re-vaccination every 3 years….despite evidence & a study showing a vaccine provides at LEAST 7-14 years protection. Dr. Jean Dodds is a veterinary immunologist. If your vet, groomer, or animal facility says your animal(s) NEED to be re-vaccinated, they don’t know the scientific facts. Please feel free to share this information with them.

Vaccines are ONLY to be given to perfectly healthy animals. This is stated in the literature that accompanies every vial of vaccine. If an animal has ANY health condition, including fleas, worms, parasites, or ANYTHING causing them to not feel well, they are NOT to be vaccinated. Animals with allergies, kidney disease/failure, liver disease/failure or any health condition are NEVER to be vaccinated or re-vaccinated as this damages their immune system & worsens the existing health condition. Every natural or holistic veterinarian we know believes the auto-immune problems we’re seeing in our animals are the result of vaccination. You may obtain a Vaccine Waiver Consent Form & a Sample Rabies Exemption Letter by contacting the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association at 410-569-0795. We’re also sending you a sample Vaccine Exemption Letter in a separate email.

California law now allows for vaccination exemption. A case was settled in court & there is now legal precedence on this. A dog owner had been notified by his local animal control that his dog had to have another rabies vaccine before they would issue a dog license. His dog had a health issue & couldn’t be re-vaccinated. The authorities wouldn’t accept his vet’s vaccine waiver letter, so the man took it to court & won. The State of CA signed rabies vaccine exemption into law on October 7, 2011. It’s known as “Molly’s Bill” AB258. CA is the 14th state to do so. Many other states also allow for this. Check with your state if you live in another area.

Presently, the same dose is given to all sizes of dogs. Tiny dogs like Yorkies receive the same dose as 180 lb. dogs & combination vaccines are routinely given (5 in 1, 7 in 1). This doesn’t make sense. It’s also dangerous & harmful. If you do opt to re-vaccinate your animal(s), ask your vet about adjusting the dose & only do 1 vaccine at a time (not the combo types), at least 3-4 weeks apart. We know vets who now give only 1/4 of the usual amount to small animals; this is the dosage recommended by the holistic vets we know & use. Dr. Peter Dobias in Canada has titer tested dogs given the 1/4 dose & all showed the amount gives the full coverage needed. For those who choose to vaccinate, hopefully the days of “same dose for a mouse as for an elephant” will soon be a thing of the past.

If you choose to vaccinate, vaccines must be given 1 at a time so the immune system can properly process them. Single vaccine means for 1 disease only in the vaccine & at the time of vaccination. Combination vaccine means it’s 2 or more diseases in the same vaccine, such as distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, & parainfluenza. When a combination vaccine is given, the immune system is overdosed, overwhelmed, & cannot properly process them. Your animal then doesn’t have the proper protection the vaccine is designed for & their immune system is damaged. Many vets continue to re-vaccinate dogs every year. Many also re-vaccinate for Corona virus. It’s impossible for a dog over 6 weeks of age to contract Corona virus. The Bordatella vaccine only covers 2 of the 8 varieties & it’s equivalent to a cold in a human. When your dog’s immune system is strong & they’re in good health, they don’t tend to catch things like this from other dogs. A strong immune system is able to fight off viruses, bacteria & other “bad guys.” Rabies vaccine should never be given with any other vaccine, drug, procedure or treatment. This is the most damaging of all vaccines.

Did you know that human vaccine labeling is under FDA control, but animal vaccination labeling is NOT? The FDA regulates human vaccines and does not invoke federal privilege to indemnify human vaccine manufacturers from liability in state courts. However, interestingly the government agency which oversees veterinary vaccines DOES invoke federal privilege to limit animal vaccine manufacturers from liability in state courts. Therefore, when adverse reactions occur with veterinary vaccines there is no “deep pocket” to tap for liability. Perhaps it’s because many vets and pharmaceutical companies make large profits on repeat yearly or three-year vaccinations. There is also no reporting agency that keeps track of the problems caused by animal vaccines or how many animals have bad reactions to vaccines. Sadly, we see it all too often because of the number of dogs we’re involved with in rescue. Conventional vets don’t recognize many of the signs of vaccinosis (vaccine poisoning).

Vaccines do NOT prevent disease or immunize, they sensitize.
Vaccines cause encephalitis, inflammation of the brain – (Dr. Russell Blaylock, famous Board-certified neurosurgeon & author, says all vaccines cause brain inflammation).
Vaccines are deadly poisons and contain toxins.
Vaccines can cause the disease they’re designed to prevent – we’ve seen this many times in the rescue dogs.
Vaccines shed into the environment spreading disease.
Vaccines disarm and unbalance the immune system.

Common substances found in vaccines include:

Aluminum gels or salts of aluminum which are added as adjuvants to help the vaccine stimulate a better response. Adjuvants help promote an earlier, more potent response, and more persistent immune response to the vaccine.
Antibiotics which are added to some vaccines to prevent the growth of germs (bacteria) during production and storage of the vaccine. No vaccine produced in the United States contains penicillin.
Antifreeze – Also known as Ethylene Glycol. May lead to kidney, liver, blood and central nervous system (CNS) disorders. Harmful or fatal if swallowed. Effects include behavioral disorders, drowsiness, vomiting, diarrhea, visual disturbances, thirst, convulsions, cyanosis, and rapid heart rate, CNS stimulation, depression, cardiopulmonary effects, kidney disorders. May also lead to liver and blood disorders. Produces reproductive and developmental effects in experimental animals.
Borax – Traditionally used as a pesticide, including ant killer. Suspected cardiovascular or blood toxicant, endocrine toxicant, gastrointestinal or liver toxicant and neurological toxicant. Found to cause reproductive damage and reduced fertility in a study on rats.
Egg protein – Ordinarily, persons/animals who are able to eat eggs or egg products safely can receive these vaccines.
Formaldehyde is used to inactivate bacterial products for toxoid vaccines, (these are vaccines that use an inactive bacterial toxin to produce immunity.) It’s also used to kill unwanted viruses and bacteria that might contaminate the vaccine during production. Unsafe at any level.
Glutaraldehyde – Poisonous if ingested (worse if injected). Causes birth defects in experimental animals.
Methanol – A volatile, flammable and poisonous liquid alcohol. Used as a solvent and an antifreeze compound in fuel. In the body it is metabolized to formaldehyde.
Monosodium glutamate (MSG) and 2-phenoxy-ethanol which are used as stabilizers in a few vaccines to help the vaccine remain unchanged when the vaccine is exposed to heat, light, acidity, or humidity
MSG – An FDA web page called “FDA and Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)” states “Injections of glutamate in laboratory animals have resulted in damage to nerve cells in the brain.” Symptoms include but are not limited to: burning and tingling sensations of the upper extremities, numbness, facial pressure, chest pain, headache, rapid heartbeat, nausea and drowsiness.
Thimerosal is a mercury-containing preservative that is added to vials of vaccine that contain more than one dose to prevent contamination and growth of potentially harmful bacteria.
2 Phenoxyethanol Developmental toxicant, reproductive toxicant. Metabolic poison (i.e. interferes with the metabolism in all cells). Capable of disabling the immune system’s primary response.
Ammonium Sulfate, Gentamicin Sulfate, Neomycin Sulfate, Polymyxin B, Polysorbate 20/80, Sorbitol, Polyribosylribitol, Beta-Propiolactone, Amphotericin B, Animal organ tissue and blood, Aborted human fetal tissue and albumin, Large foreign proteins, Latex, Animal and Human viruses (http://www.wingedwolf.citymax.com/page/page/1303049.htm – also CDC website).

More info on vaccine ingredients; this is an excellent website for health information: http://healthwyze.org/index.php/component/content/article/60-vaccine-secrets.html.

In a survey of over 4,000 dogs performed by US & UK vets, owners were asked, if your dog is ill, when did he become ill in relation to vaccination? We’ve been astounded by the results so far:

91% of Ataxia cases occurred within three months of a vaccine event
81% of dogs who had tumors at their vaccine sites, first developed the tumors within three months of being vaccinated
78.6% of dogs with encephalitis (inflammation of the brain) first developed the condition within three months of being vaccinated
73.1% of epileptic dogs first became epileptic within three months of being vaccinated
65.9% of dogs with colitis developed the condition within that first three months
64.9% of dogs with behavioral problems started to be a problem within three months of vaccination
61.5% of dogs developed liver failure within three months of being vaccinated.

French scientist, Michel Aubert’s study shows that the chances of a dog or cat developing rabies in the United States that has had one rabies vaccination is less than one in eight million, (<1:8,000,000). By contrast, you have a greater than one in 600,000 chance of being struck by lightning if you stand in a thunderstorm. (Aubert Michel F, The practical significance of rabies antibodies in cats and dogs, Scientific and Technical Revue, 11(3) 735, 1992 Paris, France). An independent study on vaccine safety & efficacy has NEVER been done, yet the current multiple vaccination protocols are accepted as good, safe, sound "medicine." The only vaccine required by law is rabies. If your animal has EVER had a bad reaction to any vaccine or has any health condition, they must never be re-vaccinated. Repeat vaccinations will worsen any health condition & damage their immune system permanently, making them unable to fight the condition/disease. If you absolutely must vaccinate for rabies, tell your vet you want a Thimerosol-free vaccine. Thimerosol (mercury) in vaccines has been linked to adverse reactions. Merial makes one- and three-year thimerosol-free rabies vaccines: IMRAB® 1 TF and IMRAB® 3 TF. Make sure you see “TF” on the label. (If your vet doesn’t carry the vaccine, you may have to vet shop to find the vaccine you want.) You might also ask the vet why he/she doesn’t carry it. Holistic vets carry this "safer" rabies vaccine. If you decide you MUST vaccinate, do it at the safest time. Vaccinate in the morning, early in the week, & don't leave the area for at least 1 hour, if possible. Watch for reactions for at least 48 hours. Reactions occurring when the closest vet's office is closed can prove disastrous, even fatal. Small dogs have more adverse reactions to vaccines than larger dogs, but they're dangerous to all animals. If your dog has ever been given Benadryl after being vaccinated, this is because your dog had an adverse reaction to the vaccine - even if the vet didn't tell you this is why they gave Benadryl. Animals who've had ANY adverse reaction to a vaccine are NEVER to be re-vaccinated & should be given a vaccine exemption letter by the vet. Preserving their health & immune system is so important so let's do everything possible to keep them healthy. If your vet won't do this for you, find another vet. There are homeopathic remedies that will help lessen vaccine damage; a homeopathic vet can tell you about these. They're inexpensive (about $8 for 80 pills); Sprout's, Mothers Markets, Whole Foods, Elixirs.com & many online sources carry homeopathic remedies. Adverse Reactions to Vaccine are common & include: vomiting, lethargy, swelling (injection site, face, feet, tongue), rash, bumps, itchy/scratching, flu like symptoms (fever, coughing, muscle pain), irritability, whimpering/crying, seizure, pain (joints or elsewhere), respiratory or cardiac difficulties, constricted air passages resulting in panting & difficulties in breathing, sudden onset of diarrhea, lack of appetite, infection at injection site, neurological damage (confusion, lack of coordination), muscle damage (if the injection is not properly administered), unresponsive, shock, liver & kidney damage (vaccines contain a lot of toxic materials), & sarcoma (some dogs develop sarcomas in the injected area, which links the occurance of sarcomas to vaccinations). The most common symptoms of anaphylaxis are the sudden onset of diarrhea, vomiting, shock, seizures, coma, and death. The animals' gums will be very pale, and the limbs will feel cold. The heart rate is generally very fast, but the pulse is weak. There can be facial swelling. Anaphylaxis is a life-threatening, allergic reaction to something ingested or injected. If left untreated, it results in shock, respiratory and cardiac failure, and death. An anaphylactic reaction can occur as a result of vaccination. The reaction usually occurs within minutes to hours (less than 24) of the vaccination. If you dog has any of these symptoms get it to the veterinarian immediately for treatment. These symptoms typically develop within 30 minutes after the administration of the vaccines. For this reason, some vets prefer to keep the pet under surveillance immediately after the vaccine shots. If severe allergic reactions occur, the dog requires a dose of epinephrine, which is a substance that will immediately reduce the inflammation allowing the dog to breathe normally. If the dog doesn’t get help within 7 minutes after the symptoms occur, the adverse reactions may be fatal, as the dog will not get sufficient oxygen. 30 Vaccine Induced Diseases: http://www.thedogplace.org/II-InstantInfo/Vaccine-Induced-Diseases.htm ** Once you've administered the needle, you can never change your mind. Please STUDY THE FACTS, don't live to regret it. There is NO safe vaccine & NO wellness after a vaccine. ALL vaccines cause brain inflammation, immune system suppression & other damage.** http://www.dogsadversereactions.com/scienceVaccineDamage.html (very thorough article) http://www.naturalrearing.com/coda/a_rabies_the_big_scam.html http://www.critteradvocacy.org/Vaccination%20Concerns.htm http://vetmedicine.about.com/od/vaccinations/a/FALC_vacctiters.htm http://www.healthypetjournal.com/default.aspx?tabid=17929 (by another vet) Just ONE rabies vaccine can kill or permanently damage (it happened to my dogs & many others): http://vitalanimal.com/just-rabies-vaccine/. It's the worst of all animal vaccines. Christina Chambreau, DVM - "Routine vaccinations are probably the worst thing that we do for our animals. They cause all types of illnesses but not directly to where we would relate them definitely to be caused by the vaccine. Repeating vaccinations on a yearly basis undermines the whole energetic well-being of our animals. Animals do not seem to be decimated by one or two vaccines when they are young and veterinary immunologists tell us that viral vaccines need only be given once or twice in an animal's life. First, there is no need for annual vaccinations and, second, they definitely cause chronic disease. As a homeopath, it is almost impossible to cure an animal without first addressing the problems that vaccines have caused to the animal, no matter what the species." Don Hamilton, DVM: "First, remembering that booster vaccines are unnecessary, we can stop all vaccination after one year of age for virtually all diseases. (Rabies is required by law so we need to work to change the laws so that they are in accordance with the facts rather than fear.) As repetition naturally increases the likelihood of problems, we can reduce side effects tremendously with no additional risk to the patient, simply by stopping adult boosters. Of course, there will still be some risk involved with even the initial vaccinations, but no risk of contracting the acute disease once the animal is immunized by these first vaccines. See below for duration of immunity to the various diseases for which vaccines are available. Secondly, all vaccines should be administered as single antigens. (An antigen is something that is capable of eliciting an immune response, in this case a viral or bacterial organism from which a vaccine is produced.) This means not using the polyvalent (combination) vaccines which have become so common these days. Natural exposure to diseases is usually one at a time, and the body is probably more successful at responding to only one antigen and producing immunity without adverse effects, rather than responding to a complex of antigens. Therefore, rather than giving a group of antigens together at three to four week intervals, individual components should be given using an alternating schedule with a minimum of repetition." Charles E Loops, DVM - "The first thing that must change with routine vaccinations is the myth that vaccines are not harmful. Veterinarians and animal guardians have to come to realize that they are not protecting animals from disease by annual vaccinations, but in fact, are destroying the vitality and immune systems of these same animals they love and care for. Homeopathic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners have maintained for some time that vaccinations do more harm than they provide benefits. Vaccinations represent a major assault on the body's immune system.... Vaccine induced chronic diseases range from life-threatening conditions such as auto-immune crises to conditions destroying the quality of life of an animal as in chronic skin allergies." John Fudens, DVM - "All mandatory rabies vaccination programs are colorable law, in that they have been passed & mandated upon the pet owning public by certain vested interest groups. Who are these groups? First & foremost are veterinarians, in general, & veterinarian medical organizations. Second are the local animal control personnel, bureaucrats & politicians. What are their reasons? GREED, POWER & CONTROL. Both these large powerful interest groups stand to benefit greatly by having rabies mandated by colorable law." "Veterinarians receive a large percentage of both their gross income & profit from vaccines given in the office. On average vaccines cost 60 to 95 cents per dose & are charged to the client at $15 to $25 per injection & substantially more in the large cities. Therefore, if veterinarians lobby to have a colorable law passed to give rabies vaccine every year that enhances their financial picture." "The vaccines, particularly rabies, are a political & economic scam being forced upon pet owners because they do not know the truth." Dr. Gerhard Buchwald, West Germany, specialist of internal diseases & participant in about 150 trials of vaccination victims - "Vaccination is not necessary, not useful, does not protect. There are twice as many casualties from vaccination as from AIDS." "Every vaccine produces harm. ALL vaccines are and have been causing ischemic (impaired blood flow) damages - to all - creating a plethora of chronic illnesses, disease, and in some instances...death. The injury from vaccination is additive, each vaccination further injures.” Dr. Andrew Moulden MD, PhD (http://healthyprotocols.com/2_Dr_Moulden.htm - loaded with info). Dr. Moulden started his research to prove vaccine safety; he found the opposite. Dr. Moulden took degrees in 3 disciplines on his quest to understand autism & the ASDs (autism syndrome disorders). Russell Blaylock, MD (neurosurgeon) - "Vaccination can kill you or ruin your life. All vaccination causes brain inflammation." http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2004/05/12/vaccination-dangers.aspx Guylaine Lanctot, MD - "Immunization is total nonsense! More than that is what's hidden from people about vaccines. They are dangerous. One child out of five has overwhelming disabilities from vaccines - neurological problems, seizures. The medical establishment works closely with the drug multinationals whose main objective is profits, & whose worst nightmare would be an epidemic of good health. Lots of drugs MUST be sold. In order to achieve this, anything goes: lies, fraud, & kickbacks. Doctors are the principal salespeople of the drug companies." "Never do anything against conscience, even if the state demands it." Albert Einstein Continued on part 2...

The Truth About Commercially-Made Pet Foods & Easy Homemade Raw Diet

Dead/euthanized pets, diseased & dying animals, road-kill, toxic chemicals, plastics, styrofoam, flea collars & more really are used in pet food.  It’s completely legal.  It’s the dirty secret the pet food manufacturers hope you never find out.  Pet food companies are allowed to call anything “organic” that was once alive…including diseased animals, moldy vegetables, rotten fruit & things deemed “unfit for human consumption.”  Pet food is a way for companies who make human food products to make money from ingredients they aren’t allowed to sell for human consumption.  Their trash becomes pet food!  Don’t be fooled by their advertising; it is NOT true.  Yes, dead animals from shelters & vet hospitals are used to make pet foods.

What You Need to Know About Your Pets’ Food:  http://www.onlynaturalpet.com/KnowledgeBase/knowledgebasedetail.aspx?articleid=4

Excellent info on the shocking truth about commercially made pet foods:  http://www.acreaturecomfort.com/truthaboutpetfood.htm

How “pet food” began (also explains the meaning of “natural” & “organic” when used by pet food manufacturers): http://pawsitivecarnivore.blogspot.com/2013/09/how-did-pet-food-start-and-whats-in-it.html

What’s Really in Your Pet’s Food:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=g9DTzDfYMxo

Here’s info on the easiest way to make super healthy, yet inexpensive, raw food for your dogs & cats.  We recommend you watch the 2 videos below first & then read the rest of this email.     http://paleopet.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3wLTlqnMMg&feature=related

We make a batch of the ground raw meat food using the following recipe: 2 cups regular muscle meat (ground chicken, turkey, beef or fish – not organ meat); 3/4 cup raw ground up veggie, 1 raw egg, 1/2 cup ground organ meat (liver, kidneys, gizzards, spleen, brains, thyroid) & calcium (ground bones or eggshells, or powdered calcium).  Mix all ingredients well.  You can safely keep this completely thawed raw food mix in the fridge for 3-4 days.  Freezing is great so you can defrost it as needed.  Run the veggies (raw or cooked) thru a food processor first before adding anything else.  Be sure it’s in tiny pieces as this makes it very easy to digest.  Next, add your muscle meat, organ meat, raw egg, & calcium source (ground raw bones, crushed eggshells or purchased calcium/bonemeal powder).  If you feel it’s too thick, you can add a small amount of filtered drinking water; spring water & reverse osmosis are the 2 best types.
Calcium must be added to this food if there are no bones in it.  Organic eggshells are the very best for this.  It’s a natural food & contains calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, sulfur, & more…along with amino acids.  To make eggshell calcium, rinse out the eggshells & allow them to air dry.  Leave the membrane on the inside of the eggshell as this also contains nutrients (pasture-raised, free-range, organic eggs are the best – remember, we are what we eat & it makes a huge difference in our health).  Run a batch of the dried eggshells thru a food processor until it’s in powder form & tiny pieces.  1 teaspoon of this powder contains 750 to 800 mgs. of elemental calcium.  You need to add 750 to 1,000 mg. of elemental calcium for every 1 lb. of food mixture (2 cups = 1 lb).  You can also use an inexpensive coffee grinder that’s designated only for eggshells, nuts, dried herbs or similar food – no coffee.  We recently purchased 1 online at Ace Hardware for $10-$11 with free shipping to our nearest store.  You don’t want any coffee or coffee residue to get on the dogs’ eggshells as it’s toxic to dogs.  This is why the grinder must only be used for foods that are dog safe.  If adding to 1 meal for a small dog, we stir in 1/4 teaspoon for every 1/8 cup of meat mix.  The other option is to use either powdered bone meal or powdered calcium supplements.  Because eggshells are a whole food, the body easily digests it & gets more nutrition from it.  Supplements are always second to real, whole foods.

– Use raw or cooked veggies.  They can eat the same veggies raw that we do & raw is always best as it has enzymes & more nutrients.  Be sure you run thru a food processor first so they’re in tiny pieces before you mix them with the meat/egg/calcium.- Allow cooked veggies to completely cool before mixing them with the raw meat.  Heat destroys enzymes & nutrients the animals need in the raw meat, so don’t add anything heated to it.

– Add some organ meat (liver, kidney, heart, gizzard, spleen, etc.) as this has different nutrients the animals need & it’s not found in muscle meat.  10-30% of the diet should be from organ meat – pasture-raised, grass-fed or organic is best.  Buy the best you can afford.  Don’t add organ meat if you’re switching a dog over to raw from regular pet food; you can add organ meat after the dog has been on the raw meat diet for 5-8 weeks.

-Add healthy fat – fat from animal meats, some raw egg, coconut oil, wild caught cod liver or salmon oil & grass-fed butter are all excellent.  For dogs weighing 1-19 lbs. we give 1/4 tsp per day with a meal.  20-39 lb. dogs get 1/2 tsp daily.  Alternating the oils is best.  These are good fats we feed:  Kerry Gold butter (it’s from grass-fed cows), coconut oil, salmon oil, raw egg, & cod liver oil (http://www.nordicnaturals.com/petRet/nnpet_prodCLO_16oz.php).  Alternating with each is best.  All these oils must be stored in the fridge except for coconut oil; this keeps it fresher & it lasts longer.  Start very slowly (3 drops per day) & gradually increase to the amount needed.  Don’t give the oil until your dog has been on the raw meat diet for at least 5-8 weeks; again, do it slowly.  These are all sold at Sprout’s, Mothers Markets, Whole Foods Market & Amazon.com.

If you’re starting your dog on the raw meat diet, add either Sparks (this is our choice as it’s the best – http://www.petwellbeing.com/), Great Life+ Digestive Enzymes (both are complete & contain probiotics, digestive enzymes & vitamins/minerals) or Mercola Digestive Enzymes for Pets & their powdered probiotic to every meal.  Stir everything well; allow the mixture to sit for at least 5 minutes before serving to the pet to give the enzymes time to work.  If money is an issue, you can stop adding this after the dog has been on the raw diet for 5-8 weeks or add 2-3 days a week.  Many people keep their pets on this for their entire lives because it’s super good for them; this is what we do.  Using these products, we’ve had NO diarrhea when starting dogs on a 100% raw ground meat & bones diet. We feed the rescue dogs this type of ground raw food to start.  Our own dogs get raw meaty bones & ground raw meals every other day.  Dogs/cats who eat raw meaty bones never get arthritis.  It also cleans their teeth beautifully & exercises their gums, jaws, & neck muscles.  Raw bone marrow is loaded with nutrients.
Cats will be more interested in the food if you add fish &/or fish water.  You can add water to the liquid in canned tuna & salmon, then put 1 tsp of this into their food.  Both dogs & cats are drawn to eat things based on its smell. Another option to making a raw diet for them is to buy an electric meat grinder that will grind chicken, quail & rabbit bones.  They run between $100-$200.  You’ll find info about this online & the grinders are sold on Ebay.  Here’s the 1 we use & recommend; it’s from Wal-Mart: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Prago-Heavy-Duty-Electric-Meat-Grinder/14321012?findingMethod=rr.  American Eagle is the best-rated brand of electric meat grinder by experienced raw feeders.  They have grinders that will grind turkey, duck & other stronger bones; they cost around $500-$700.  If you choose to use this method, email us @ 1yorkiesrescue@gmail.com & we’ll send you hints to grinding the meat.

We recommend Dr. Karen Becker’s new book on feeding a proper raw diet:  Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats – http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DN303.

Dogs are NEVER to eat these foods:  Apple leaves, stems, seeds, & core; pear seeds (all contain small amounts of cyanide, which is poisonous to dogs); onions, chocolate, grapes, raisins, coffee, gum, mushrooms, artificial sweeteners, regular potatoes, yeast dough, macadamia nuts, & rhubarb leaves.  All have things in them that are toxic to dogs.

This diet is easy to prepare & for the dogs to digest.  By adding the digestive enzymes & probiotics, you shouldn’t have any diarrhea or digestive upset when changing 100% to raw without a slow transition.  We recommend using chicken or rabbit to begin raw feeding as both are the easiest to digest.  Keep your dog on 1 of these meats for the first 2 months to allow their gastrointestinal system to adjust to the raw food.  You should then be able to change meat without any diarrhea resulting.  If there is some diarrhea, use some canned pumpkin (with NO spices); 1-3 tsp per meal for small dogs.  It should resolve in 1-2 days with no medication needed.  Don’t stress over it; it’s easy once you get the hang of it.  Along with no more vaccines, the raw meaty bones diet gives amazing health results & saves you lots of money!

The Very Best Pet Food, Part 2

If your dog has been eating mostly kibble, the easiest way to start them on a raw diet is by using 1 of the 3 methods below. Add digestive enzymes & a probiotic to each meal. Our favorite product is Spark by PetWellbeing; it’s formulated for dogs & has all supplementation needed by dogs including digestive enzymes, probiotic, multi-vitamin/minerals, omega 3 essential fatty acids (http://www.petwellbeing.com/). Next is Great Life Enzyme Pro+ (Amazon & other online sources); it has both digestive enzymes & probiotics & is also formulated for dogs. Another way is to use Mercola Digestive Enzymes for Pets (www.mercola.com) along with their pet probiotic powder. These are 2 different products & you need both if you don’t use Spark or Great Life +. Adding these prevents gastrointestinal problems & diarrhea. You can use human products, but we didn’t have the same success.  If you do use human supplements, be sure it has no sugar or any type of sweetener when giving to animals. Using these products resulted in NO diarrhea for the rescue dogs & they were put on 100% raw food immediately. Adding a heaping teaspoon (regular type, not measuring) of raw goat milk keifer to each meal also helps; stir into the raw meal with the supplement you choose. You can add some raw vegetable to these meals daily as long as they’re in tiny pieces; running through a food processor is the best way – or you can skip veggie until your dog is fully adjusted to the raw meat & bones diet & then start adding them. We give raw veggie to all new dogs & it’s never been a problem as long as we add 1 of the above supplements.

1. Use chicken or rabbit frozen ground raw dog food. These are the easiest to digest. Add the pet digestive enzymes & probiotic to each meal. Give the dose recommended by the product you choose to every meal.  If you use a human supplement instead, give 1/3 of the human dose in every meal. Human doses are based on a 150 lb. adult. Keep the dog on whichever meat you select for 6-8 weeks. If there are no issues, the dog can then be given raw meaty bones of the same meat type without the supplements, if you choose.  Giving these supplements for the rest of their lives is excellent & recommended.  Feed this for 4-6 weeks & then add some organ meat to the diet; giving the digestive enzymes & probiotic with organ meat prevents diarrhea/digestive upset. Start with 1/2 tsp a day of organ meats & work up slowly to 1 tsp per day; this is the correct amount for small dogs (4-7 lbs). Stay on this regime for another 3-4 weeks. Then change to another type of raw meaty bone such as turkey or rabbit. Stay on this meat for 4-6 weeks. After this amount of time, the animal’s digestive system should be able to have different meats on a regular basis. I often feed a different meat at each meal with no problems. Feed & supplement what you can afford. You’ll save money on vet bills with the raw meat/bones diet & natural pet rearing.

2. Feed the dog cooked chicken & a vegetable for 10 days. Add the digestive enzymes/probiotics to each meal. On day 11, make their food 75% cooked food (cooled to room temperature) & stir in 25% raw chicken or ground raw chicken.  You can also use a commercially-made raw chicken dog food instead. Keep them on this for 2-3 days. The next 3 days, make their diet 50% cooled cooked food & 50% raw food. After this, they should get 100% raw chicken dog food or ground raw chicken; give the digestive enzymes/probiotics in each meal & stay on this for the next 4 weeks. If the dog has no digestive problems, you should be able to  discontinue the digestive enzymes/probiotics IF you choose. If you can afford it, it’s best to continue these for the dog’s lifetime.  Continue to feed raw chicken for another 2-3 weeks. If there are no problems, switch to raw meaty chicken bones (neck, thighs, parts of the back with plenty of meat attached – no drumsticks yet). Keep them on this for 2 months. Then start to add a little organ meat & stay on this regime for another month. Start very small with the organ meat – 1/2 tsp per day & work up to 1 tsp a day for small dogs.  Thighs or drumsticks are now ok to feed.  After this amount of time, change to another meat; we recommend rabbit or turkey. Stay with this meat for 4-6 weeks. It should then be fine to give the dog any other type of meat & organ meat, & to change it frequently with no problem.

3. Get some ground raw chicken & give a tiny bit to the dog as a treat twice a day. Keep doing this for 3-4 days, then very slowly increase the amount of raw meat treats every 3 days while decreasing the amount of kibble the dog is eating. If there’s any diarrhea or gastrointestinal issue, be sure to give the digestive enzymes & a probiotic with every raw treat & meal. You can also give the dog canned pumpkin (the type with NO spices added) – 1 tsp to 2 tbspns per meal. It treats both diarrhea & constipation. It should resolve in 1-3 days. NEVER feed raw & kibble at the same time as these digest at different rates & can cause problems for the dog.
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As Dr. Pitcairn (well-known & well-respected homeopathic veterinarian) says, “It’s not people food – it’s real food for real dogs/cats.” We all are what we eat. The better the food/nutrition your animal gets, the better their health will be, the longer their life…& you’ll spend a lot less on vet bills. God put every species on this earth with all they need to sustain life & to thrive. There are no canned dog food trees or kibble bushes. Animals can’t cook & make fire; they don’t have pots/pans. They don’t naturally eat rice, oatmeal, barley, etc. These are NOT their natural, normal foods. We need to feed our pets the food that’s closest to what they eat in nature without human intervention to give them great health. Raw meat, meaty bones, a little veggies/fruits, & some healthy oil are what they need & what’s right for them.

If your dog has a health issue, please consult with a homeopathic vet or animal nutrition expert before you begin raw feeding. I didn’t say “consult with your vet” because conventional vets are NOT experts on nutrition & have only minimal instruction on this subject in veterinary school – about 1 to 3 hours on this utmost important factor for health! Most of them don’t understand that diet is the foundation of good health & that without the right foods, good health isn’t possible. Conventional vets believe that kibble & canned pet foods are good & are nutritionally complete. This isn’t true. Naturally trained nutritionists & veterinarians have hundreds of hours of study on this & are a wealth of knowledge on this vital subject. Vets & veterinary schools are also subsidized by pet food companies so they push those products. See what this honest, independent pet food group has to say about these brands: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/.

Good fat is important in a dog’s diet (for humans, too). Dogs utilize protein & fat as energy sources. Fat is needed for the brain, joints, skin, hair, kidneys & more. Puppies need higher levels of protein & fat than adult dogs. Senior dogs also need a good amount of protein; contrary to what conventional vets are taught. Don’t give a senior dog less protein just because it’s older. The brain utilizes fat the most of any part in the body – 60% of the daily fat needed is for the brain alone. Dogs are carnivores; they need a diet that’s 20 to 30%  good fat for optimal health. Don’t be afraid of good, natural fats. They’re essential for good health for both dogs/cats & humans.

Fish like anchovies, cod, mackrel, salmon, sardines, trout, etc. & raw eggs (with yolks) are super nutritious. These are excellent protein sources & provide the omega 3 fatty acids essential for good health. Feed wild caught fish only, never farm raised. Farm raised fish are high in mercury & don’t provide proper nutrition. They live in artificial environments & don’t eat their natural foods. The best wild cod & salmon is from Central Calif to Alaska – really cold waters. Salmon must be “hard frozen” for 3 weeks before fed raw. This is to be sure any possible parasite sometimes found in salmon is killed. Hard frozen means it’s solidly frozen, hard like a rock. Feed these raw fish 1-2 days per week to provide these nutrients. Food in the whole form is far superior part of the food & supplements. To give our dogs the essential omega fatty acids they need, we mix a raw egg & give 1 tsp daily with their raw meat & bones meal. There’s more on this in Part 1. Store the remainder in a glass container in the fridge.

In the wild, dogs get calcium from the tiny pieces of bone they consume when eating their prey. They chew the meat off the bones & eat the bones/marrow as well. Calcium is needed to balance the phosphorus they consume. If they don’t get enough calcium in relation to the phosphorus they eat, their bodies will take it from their bones. In order to balance the phosphorus & calcium in their diet, the prepared raw diets use either tiny pieces of bone or add powdered calcium. However, the best nutrition is obtained when the dogs eat & chew on the bones – getting the nutritious marrow inside the bones. When the dogs chew on meaty bones, it cleans their teeth, exercises their gums, & strengthens their jaws/necks. All the chewing action also stimulates their saliva, which aides in digestion. Dentals aren’t needed by dogs who eat raw meaty bones on a regular basis. Raw fed dogs also don’t get arthritis, diabetes, or many other health problems. Attached is a photo of my oldest Yorkie eating a raw, organic chicken leg; it takes him 30-40 minutes to finish. If a bone is too big for him (say a joint bone from a drumstick), he’ll just leave it & I throw it in the trash. He LOVES his raw meaty bones; he has sparkling white teeth, luminous hair, beautiful skin & bright eyes.

At meal time, do NOT heat or warm their food before giving it to them. This will destroy enzymes & nutrients. Simply put their food in their dish & allow it to sit on your kitchen counter for 15-20 minutes. It’s then ready to be given to the dog. My friend feeds her dogs frozen raw meaty bones & hasn’t had any problem. I’m not comfortable with this so I give only thawed pieces & also give only room temperature spring water. You want to give them quality filtered water; not tap what that contains chlorine & fluoride.

If pasture-raised, grass-fed or organic meat isn’t affordable, feed what you can afford. All raw meat & bones diets are much better than pet foods, even high-end brands. Smart & Final is an inexpensive source for meats; their brand is “First Street.” They sell a 5 lb. chub of frozen ground turkey that has no additives/seasonings for about $7; that’s $1.25 per lb. Chicken is frequently on sale for $1 per lb or less. Buy meat that has no salt added; a little salt is fine but the amount found in meats that have salt added isn’t good for them. It will tell you on the package if salt has been added. Ground beef at this store is about $2.49 per lb. They have a “must sell” meat bin where everything is reduced by 25 to 50%; this meat is totally fine for the dogs, even if it stays in your fridge for a few days more. We’ve found wild-caught fish from Florida for as low as 60 cents a lb.  Non-organic ground beef may cause the dog to itch because of the antibiotics, & other products given to cows (anti-parasite chemicals, vaccines & more). Mother’s Markets, Sprout’s & Whole Foods Markets also carry many pasture-raised & organic meats. Check with the butcher to see if he has any meat that’s being thrown away, is spoiled or is marked down; these are excellent for the dogs, completely safe for them to eat, & very affordable. Fresh or frozen veggies are easily found for 50-99 cents per lb. Hispanic or ethnic markets are another great source for inexpensive meat. It’s a little more costly to feed this way but it will save you lots of money in vet bills down the road.

You’ll find many videos on raw feeding dogs on YouTube & more info on www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com.

This independently-owned & run website rates many of the frozen raw pet foods that are sold. The 5 star rating is the best: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/raw/.

If your dog makes kidney stones or calcium oxalate stones, this diet is recommended by an Austrailan holistic vet: http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=115&Itemid=131. You can also search online for “the Fuzzer diet.” It’s a miracle for these dogs & not only dissolves the stones, it prevents them from ever forming again. This diet saved my friend from having to do an expensive surgery on her 2 dogs who had this problem – saving her over $5,500. Remember – raw is THE only correct diet for dogs.

http://www.darwinspet.com/liver-support-for-dogs/ – liver support, Darwins raw dog food for dogs with liver issues
http://www.darwinspet.com/kidney-support-for-dogs/ – kidney support, Darwins raw dog food for dogs with kidney issues

Here’s to their incredible health & a long quality life, with less vet bills for you.

Jig's chicken leg - yum!
Jig’s chicken leg – yum!

The Very Best Pet Food, Part 1

Because the 2 most important factors in determining both health & lifespan are vaccines & nutrition/diet, what your dog eats is extremely important. The best diet for dogs (cats, too) is a raw meat & bones diet. It’s also called “raw meaty bones,” SARF (species appropriate raw food), or BARF (biologically appropriate raw food).  It’s the only correct diet for both species & is as close to what they eat in nature without human intervention. In raw food, the majority of nutrients, such as amino acids, vitamins, minerals, prebiotics, probiotics, & enzymes, haven’t been altered or destroyed & they’re derived from natural sources. Feeding our dogs correctly is nothing more than plain common sense; it isn’t complex or difficult. Look at the teeth of our dogs & you won’t find omnivore teeth with both grinding molars & canines; you’ll only find teeth designed for ripping, tearing, shredding, & shearing. Looking at wolves who live in the wild, we also learn this is the correct & natural diet for K9s. Knowing this, the simple solution to feeding our dogs the proper diet – one that enables them to thrive, not just survive – is to feed a raw meaty bones diet.

It’s worked wonders for our own dogs & the Rescue dogs. It saved the life of my rescued Yorkie female who was dying from IBD (irritable bowel disease) & pancreatitis. It eliminated repetitive ear infections for others. It resulted in 8 rescue dogs with severe allergies being completely symptom/problem free, it drastically reduced seizures in another rescued dog, & stopped the Chihuahuas from shedding. It completely reversed severe diabetes in a cat in only 6 days. It cured a severe case of demodectic mange in just 1 month. At the time, we had a conventional vet.  He estimated 6 months for the 2 dogs to be completely mange free & he was amazed at the results. These animals had serious health problems & were on medications. Changing to raw, organic food resulted in great health for all of them & they no longer needed any medication. “When the diet is right, medicine is of no need; when the diet is wrong, medicine is of no use” has proven so true.

We agree with homeopathic/natural health veterinarians, & animal nutritionists that raw food is both the very best diet for both dogs/cats, & is the only correct one. It replicates their natural diet & provides the greatest nutrition. We feed & recommend a natural raw diet. There are some different ways to feed your dog or cat a raw diet. The very best method of raw feeding is called “prey feeding” or “raw meaty bones.” This not only provides the animals with proper nutrition, it cleans their teeth as they chew the meat off the bones; makes for healthy gums, & strengthens their jaws & neck muscles. The bones & marrow provide incredible nutrition & the animals really enjoy their food. Animals who eat this way don’t develop arthritis & numerous other health problems. The many benefits from feeding your pets a raw diet are phenomenal.

Conventional veterinarians have NO correct education or knowledge on nutrition. They receive only 1-3 hours of instruction on food/nutrition while in vet school from the very people who make kibble & commercially made pet food. Yet, this is 1 of the most important aspects in determining health. These same companies subsidize their education &amp, give them free food for their own pets, & give them discounts for selling their products. It’s why you find these brands in veterinary offices. Pet food ads are untrue. Holistic animal nutritionists are THE experts in this field with hundreds of hours of instruction/research on this important subject. All of them advise feeding a raw meaty bones, organic diet as the best & correct food for our dogs/cats.

If your animal has any health issue, kidney or liver disease or failure, we recommend you consult with a homeopathic veterinarian – both for homeopathic treatment & before changing to a raw diet.  We recommend homeopathic vets; most are available for phone, Skype or email consultations as well as office appointments. Please see our “Hello, World!” posting for a list of these vets.  More are listed here:  http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/AnimalWellness/Vet-List & here: http://theavh.org/.

Please NEVER feed kibble to your pets. Even if it starts out with the highest quality ingredients, it’s cooked & so overly processed that there’s very little nutrition left in it. It’s why vitamins & minerals must be added back into it. It’s NOT real, whole food. It’s a processed, man-made product. Kibble is pet food the same way potato chips are food for us….it’s junk food. It has no moisture & ends up dehydrating their internal organs. To entice pets to eat it, kibble is sprayed with fat. The natural prey that animals kill & eat is 70% water….the exact amount of water that makes up their own bodies. Water is absolutely essential in their food for good health. Read here to learn why all kibble is bad for your pets, even if made with only organic, human-grade ingredients: http://www.thewholedog.org/artkibble.html. It’s an article written by Dr. Jeannie Thomason, a naturopathic vet. She’s also a Boston Terrier natural rearing breeder.

These links explains the difference between a cooked diet vs.a raw diet for dogs & cats: What Happens to Food When It’s Cooked – http://www.thewholedog.org/artcookedfood.html.  Read about Pottenger’s Cats to see the health & lifespan difference in cats who were fed a raw diet vs. cats fed a cooked diet: http://feline-nutrition.org/nutrition/proper-feeding-from-pottengers-cats. Both articles show why today’s pets have so many health problems & birth defects.

Please read below & then research “raw pet food,” “raw meaty bones,” “prey feeding” & “SARF” for your pets. There’s info online & in books on how to feed a raw diet for a lot less money (meat as low as 79 cents a lb). These are the best websites we’ve found:

rawlearning.com
rawfed.com
http://www.rawfed.com/myths/preymodel.html
http://feline-nutrition.org/ (this has great info that helps small dogs)
http://www.skylarzack.com/rawfeeding.htm
http://k9rawdiet.com/FAQ-p-5.html
http://www.rawfeddogs.net/Recipes
http://feline-nutrition.org/answers/answers-raw-diets-and-cats-what-about-eating-bones (for cats but the info is great for small dogs)
http://thewholedog.org/id9.html#nutrition

Other methods of raw feeding are: a) ground raw meat with bones & organs (either grinding it yourself or purchasing frozen raw pet food that has been ground with the meat & bones in it); and b) the Paleopet method. Ground raw meat with bones & organs is the 2nd best way of raw feeding since it contains bones, marrow & organ meat. The Paleopet method is not as good as these first 2 methods since it does not have ground bones & marrow in it. You must add calcium or bone meal to this. Whole natural food is always best & gives the most nutrition. If not feeding raw bones, we recommend using ground eggshells as the calcium source (more about this later). Powdered supplement is next (either calcium or bone meal). Supplements are good, but never equal the nutrients found in whole, natural foods. Marrow has high nutritional value & is necessary for good health. This video explains the Paleopet method: http://paleopet.com/.  Eggs from chickens who are pasture-raised & fed organic, non-GMO feed are best.

Our dogs get a small amount of raw vegetables daily with their raw meat/bones. It should be only 10-15% of their diet. If the veggie must be cooked before eaten (like asparagus), we steam it using low heat. Cool it to room temperature before giving to the dogs or adding to their raw meat/bones meal. Heat from just-cooked veggies will destroy enzymes in the raw meat & you don’t want to do that. Raw foods have more nutrients & also have enzymes that are essential for good health. Enzymes are destroyed by heat/cooking. We run the veggies through a food processor before adding to the raw meat meal. These tiny pieces are very easy for dogs to digest & they get more nutrition from it, too.

The best quality meat & eggs are wild raised, next is pasture-raised or grass-fed, organic (nothing GMO); third best is organic. Feed the best you can afford. Any raw meat/bones diet is far superior to pet foods. Do NOT give dogs meat that’s been injected with sodium. You need to read labels as this is commonly done to fowl (chicken, turkey, etc). We buy most of our pasture-raised, grass-fed, organic meat & ground raw dog food from our local whole food markets & from Creston Valley Meats (http://crestonvalleymeats.com/). They deliver frozen meats & ground raw dog food to both So & No CA every week. Simon & his staff are happy to explain how it all works; their website has their phone number. Their prices are 50-75% less than what pet stores charge for frozen raw dog foods.

You’ll find info on the raw diet & food suppliers for your dogs at the best prices here: http://www.dogaware.com/diet/rawgroups.html. If you live in another area, do an online search to find a “raw fed” group near you. They’re a terrific source of where to find low prices on quality, truly natural meats. There are many Yahoo & Facebook raw feeding groups you can also check out.

Commercially-made raw pet foods are a good way to get started with the raw diet. However, be aware that feeding ground raw meat with bones does not clean their teeth & is not the best way to feed your dog for the rest of it’s life. The prey method or raw meaty bones does an excellent job of this, & once the dogs are accustomed to it, they thoroughly enjoy this way of eating. This method not only cleans their teeth, it strengthens their jaw & neck muscles, & makes for healthy gums.  Commercially-made raw food is more expensive, but it’s still superior to standard “pet foods.”

It’s very easy & not expensive to make raw food for dogs. By feeding your dog a raw meat/bones diet, you’ll save a lot of money in vet expenses. According to the holistic animal nutritionist & natural veterinarians we use, dogs actually do best on a simple diet of 1 meat per meal. Fruits & vegetables are optional. They’re excellent & provide antioxidants, fiber & nutrients, which is why we feed them to our dogs. Fruit MUST be fed alone as a snack – NEVER with meat/protein. Fruit digests in about 15 minutes while meat/protein takes the longest amount of time; this is why they’re not to be eaten together. Veggies are fine to be included with their meat/protein, just keep it at 10-15% of their daily diet. The majority of their diet needs to be raw meat. They’re carnivores who need this type of protein. We give our dogs fruit as an afternoon snack 3-4 days a week…never with any meat/protein.

Dogs/cats need organ meat (kidney, liver, gizzard, spleen, etc) but you don’t have to add it daily if you don’t want to. Organ meat should be 10-15% of their diet; these are nutrient-rich foods & you’ll want to include them about 2 months after your dog has been eating the raw meat diet. You can feed some organ meat 2-3 days a week if you don’t include it daily. This has nutritients that aren’t found in muscle meat & is necessary for good health. Taurine is 1 of these; it’s needed for proper urinary tract function. A small dog (4 to 16 lbs) should get 1 to 3 teaspoons of organ meat per day if given daily.  Heart is muscle meat, not organ.

Raw eggs are best. We feed a little mixed raw egg daily. Cooked eggs are ok, but it’s best to limit cooked foods to only 1 day per week. Eggs are the highest quality protein on earth. Even the shell is edible & provides calcium. Small dogs can have a problem with a whole raw egg & it can give them diarrhea. We crack open a pasture-raised, organic raw egg, mix it up & give each dog 1 tsp (type used to stir coffee, not measure) of the mixed raw egg in their dish along with their daily raw meaty bone meal.  Or, you can stir the raw egg into their tiny pieces of veggie & organ meats. Giving raw egg daily or a few days a week is fine.  It’s safe to keep the raw egg in the fridge for 3-4 days; storing in glass is best. After that time, either toss out whatever is left or cook it.

If you feed ground meat without bones & marrow, you must add calcium to this (900 to 1,000 mg for 1 lb of food; 2 cups = 1 lb). Adding calcium provides a nutritionally complete meal to this type of raw meat meal.  When dogs chew on & eat the raw meaty bones, they get their needed calcium, phosphorus & trace minerals from the pieces of bone/marrow they ingest. Yes, raw bones (chicken, turkey, rabbit, etc) are safe for your dog. They break easily when a dog chews on them. Chicken & turkey sold in stores for human consumption comes from birds who are only 6 to 8 weeks old; their bones are not hard. Bones from bigger animals (beef, lamb, llama, venison, etc) are more dense & harder.  Never give your pets any weight bearing bones (legs) from larger animals.  They could cause problems for the animals, including chipped or broken teeth. Once a week, we give each dog a beef rib with meat attached & take away whatever bones they haven’t consumed within 30-60 minutes of eating them.  Natural calcium, derived from a food source is best as this is what’s proper for the body. Eggshells are the next best source for this, after raw bones. Never use synthetic supplements/vitamins; the body deals with them the same as chemicals since it’s not a natural food. Centrum is an example of a synthetic vitamin. Spark is a new whole food complete supplement that’s great for dogs; we give it daily; http://www.petwellbeing.com/products/spark-daily-nutritional-supplement-for-dogs-and-cats-50g. It has vitamins, minerals, omega 3, probiotics & digestive enzymes. It’s terrific for them.  Our dogs love it & we highly recommend it.

There are a number of prepared raw dog foods available at better specialty pet supply stores, animal feed stores & online. Prepared raw dog food comes in 2 types – frozen/fresh or dehydrated/freeze dried. The dehydrated & freeze dried types are reconstituted by adding water to them & allowing them to sit for awhile. Leaving it overnight in the fridge is best. The longer it sits, the easier it becomes to digest. Some brands of this type of raw food are:  Sojo’s Complete (some quality issues – not always enough meat in the product), Grandma Lucy’s (too much garlic), & The Honest Kitchen. Some PetCo & Pet Smart stores now carry frozen raw pet foods but not all of them. You’ll need to call the stores in your area to find out.

We used the dehydrated/freeze dried for awhile. It’s not as good as the fresh/frozen type & didn’t give the same great results to the dogs as the fresh/frozen. Our dogs tired of these type of dried raw foods quickly, but they love the raw meaty bones. If you’re traveling with your dog, these dried raw foods are an option since they don’t require refrigeration & you can easily feed it, even while traveling in the car. Simply add some pure, filtered water to reconstitute the food, allow it to soak for 20-30 minutes & then give to the dog. Our dogs don’t like & won’t eat “Steve’s Real Food” (frozen raw) but we have a friend who feeds Steve’s & her dogs love it.  It’s a good idea to buy a small amount of a new food to see how your dog reacts to it.  We’re opposted to “Nature’s Variety” because some of their meat is from China; it’s used in their raw, canned & dried foods. We also say NO to Stella & Chewy’s, Bravo, & Natural Instinct brands because they use high-pressure pasteurization. It’s unnecessary & destroys nutrients. There’s also no long-term history yet to know exactly how this effects the animals’ health. It becomes “processed food” – raw, unprocessed is best. The less done to the food, the better. This link gives you info on this:
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/10/22/sterile-raw-pet-food.aspx?e_cid=20121022_PetsNL_art_1

Before feeding the “prey method” of raw food, we used these brands of ground raw dog food & do recommend them: PawNaturaw (866-Raw4Pet), Darwins (http://www.darwinspet.com/), Harmony Farms (http://essentials4all.org/HARMONY_FARMS.html), OC Raw (http://www.ocrawdog.com/), TigerTail Foods (http://tigertailfoods.com/), & Aunt Jeni’s. These are all the best-rated frozen, commercially-made, ground raw dog foods in our area. It’s an easy way to transition to raw feeding if you’re uncomfortable starting right in with the raw meaty bones, prey or Paleopet methods. These raw frozen foods are totally complete & have ground-up bone & marrow in them. This supplies the calcium, phosphorus & trace minerals needed. The down side to these foods is that they have too many ingredients & most of them have fruit – remember, pets do best on a simple 1 meat & 1 veggie diet, & fruit should never be fed with protein. It’s still a better option than standard pet foods, & will give your dog much better health. Aunt Jeni’s brand has a strong garlic odor & it’s not our first choice in commercially-made raw pet foods. Garlic is actually good for dogs, but they shouldn’t eat it every day without a break.  More info on this in another post.

You can also make a complete raw diet yourself. The Paleopet link above shows you how to do this & there’s much info about this online. There are online groups that have formed to get fresh, grass-fed & organic foods directly from the farmers at a reduced rate. In addition to vibrant health, lots of energy, no arthritis, glistening hair/coat/eyes, etc, you’ll find that the bowel movements from dogs & cats who eat a raw diet are small & have very little odor. This is because their bodies utilize almost all of the food since it’s what they need & is super high quality…resulting in very little waste. There is no “filler” in this food. You’ll find lots of great info on dog nutrition, brands of prepared raw dog foods, & other doggie stuff at www.dogaware.com – http://vitalanimal.com/, http://dr-jordan.com/, http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/dr-karen-becker.aspx,  www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com, http://www.drdeeblanco.com/about/ & http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/. There’s a wide variation in prices, so check it out. Switch meat/veggie types & brands often to give the dogs a different mix & for good health (variety is best for all of us nutritionally).

For dogs with food allergies, our animal nutritionist & natural veterinarians recommend trying rabbit or venison for their meat/protein. Rabbit is the easiest meat for them to digest. Beef, salmon/fish, buffalo, goat, llama & turkey are also good choices. Steaming is recommended IF you cook the veggies. Again, raw is best. Salmon must either be “hard frozen” for 3 weeks prior to feeding or must be cooked to be safe. The 3 week hard freeze will kill any fluke parasite that’s possibly found in salmon. Canned fish is cooked & safe for dogs & cats but it’s best to limit cooked food to only 1 day per week if you include any in their diet. Remember to keep their diet about 70-80% meat, 10% for bones, 10% veggies, & 10% organ meat. I know people who feed only meat/eggs 5 days a week & add veggies with organ meat only twice a week. Again, do some reading so you’ll understand their nutritional needs & feel comfortable with what you give them.  Good nutrition is achieved over time; not every meal must be “100% balanced & complete.”  That’s not how they eat in the wild.

If your dog appears to have a food allergy, alternate ingredients to find out what your dog is allergic to.  If they have a reaction to anything, keep a list of it so you know not to feed that to them.  The usual allergic reaction to a food item will be scratching & licking themselves – ears, eyes, face, & paws are common spots.  Allergy dogs should be kept on this very simple diet of 1 meat per meal.  When adding a veggie, just 1 per meal.  Dr. Jean Dodds is able to test for food allergies; more info is here on her website:  http://www.nutriscan.org/.  She’s located in Garden Grove (http://www.hemopet.org/).

Check for animal feed stores in your area.  We shop at Anaheim Feed Store in Anaheim, CA.  These stores have a good variety of frozen, raw foods, & their prices are much better than the big chain type pet stores or the pet boutique stores.  Raw food contains enzymes, amino acids & other nutrients that are destroyed in cooking, even if you just warm it up.  Dogs & cats NEED these enzymes/nutrients.  In the wild, they eat raw meat when they kill their prey.  Please do some reading on this.  You’ll be amazed at what you learn & what a tremendous difference raw food has made in the health & lives of the dogs & cats who eat it.  Their digestive systems are different than ours & they are NOT affected by things in raw meat like we are (i.e., salmonella, bacteria).  We can personally attest to the outstanding health & benefits our dogs have from eating a grass-fed, organic, raw diet.  Plus, you’ll save money because there’s a lot fewer vet bills.  We’ve seen raw food work wonders for every health condition, including allergies, repeat ear infections, irritable bowel disease, yeast conditions, seizures, pancreatitis, impacted anal glands, etc – even completely eliminating these problems for some of the dogs.
Continued on Part 2…

How to Give Your Dog Optimal Health

We want to share some vital information with you that’s given our dogs incredible, optimal health & a much longer, quality life. It’s also saved us a ton of money in vet expenses. The 2 biggest factors in determining both are vaccination & food/nutrition. The 3rd factor is toxins; eliminate these, both internally & externally…things like flea/tick/pest products that are applied topically or in shampoos/treatments, flea collars, or oral medications (Bravecto, Comfortis, Capstar, Program, Trifexis, Advantix, Frontline, Revolution, etc), chemicals sprayed in or around the home, chemicals used to clean the environment, etc. This method of raising pets is called “natural pet rearing” & the results it gives are phenomenal.

For those who’ve only ever known conventional dog care methods, the natural approach may at first seem to go against almost everything you know. This is because conventional methods tend to have been developed from the human perspective. It’s been taught to veterinary students by companies who make lots of money by selling their products (vaccines, drugs, chemicals, food), and it’s incorrectly based on the dog eating like a human.

The natural approach looks at & works with “the whole dog” in a natural way that ignites the body’s internal healing force & stimulates its natural abilities to heal itself. Elimination of the symptoms is what conventional medicine is based on. However, just eliminating the symptom or treating only the symptom is NOT the same as elimination of the cause or disease that produced that symptom(s) in the first place. Natural health looks to find the cause of the problem & to use proper nutrition, natural means, & homeopathy to cure or eliminate the cause of the problem(s). Homeopathy is our preferred method of medical care; it works with the body so it can heal itself & uses only natural medicines to do this. It’s been extremely successful for us & has even cleared vaccine damage.

Prior to raising our dogs naturally, we used conventional vets; we did exactly what they told us must be done. Our dogs were fed the best-rated kibble & pet foods; we also gave them some home-cooked food. They were re-vaccinated every 3 years & were given vet approved flea/tick products when needed. All of them developed numerous health problems & lived shorter lives. Over a period of 35 years, we had numerous dogs – usually 4 to 6 at a time. The dogs raised conventionally (kibble, pet food, repeat vaccines, flea products, conventional medical care) all ended up with severe allergies, seizures, liver disease/failure, kidney disease/failure, repeat ear infections, anal gland problems, bad breath, tooth loss, body odor, Addison’s disease, Cushing’s disease, cancer, & more. They all died or had to be put to sleep between 11-12.5 years old. All the conventional vets we used in the past told us to feed our dogs kibble, that this was best for them, that it was “balanced & nutritionally complete” & that it cleaned their teeth. In spite of the dogs all having health problems, these vets insisted the dogs be re-vaccinated every 3 years, with full-dose combination vaccines & the rabies vaccine. Not 1 of them ever advised against re-vaccination or told us that vaccine label instructions state vaccines are only to be given to healthy animals/people.  They never recommended another way to feed our dogs. None ever told us about titer testing either, about doing only 1 vaccine at a time, or about adjusting the size of the vaccine to fit the animal.

Unfortunately, conventional vets have very little education on any of these essential subjects. Most of the info they have on this is incorrect. It’s what they’re taught in veterinary college by the pharmaceutical companies & pet food manufacturers. They receive approximately 1-3 hours of instruction on nutrition & the instructors work for pet food manufacturers. We know this is still true because the daughter of one of our members is presently attending veterinary college. Once she completes this, she’ll go on to attend a natural veterinary college as she wants to practice natural veterinary care instead.

Vaccines are usually 20-30% of a vet’s business. Pet foods are about 10-20%. That’s a substantial sum of money to pass up if you stop re-vaccinating pets & selling certain brands of pet food. They also make less money when there are less animals to treat for health problems. Naturally raised animals rarely need veterinary care; usually only a yearly wellness check-up is all they require.

Since changing to natural rearing practices & homeopathy, our dogs have no dog odor, no bad breath, no fleas/parasites/pests, no ear infections, no tooth loss, anal gland problems, etc. The first 2 dogs who were on this regime since we got them enjoyed good health & had lots of energy. They were both rescue dogs & came to us at age 5 yrs. Both lived to be 19 years old & died in their sleep from natural causes (heart simply stops beating). They were never re-vaccinated & ate only a raw meat/bones diet. The only vet expenses we had was for their routine wellness exams & blood work every year – about $300 per dog per year. Vet bills for just one of our dogs who had kidney disease/failure was over $5,000 for disease management alone.

Small dogs lived to be around 25-27 years of age before commercially made pet food & vaccination protocols came on the scene. Cancer, organ disease/failure (heart, kidneys, liver) & auto-immune diseases were VERY rare. Most pets were fed food from the families’ table & if they were vaccinated, it was only for rabies once or twice in their entire life. Many cite that the oldest dog ever recorded, a 29-year-old Australian cattle dog named Bluey, died in 1939, several years before commercial pet food was invented, & that, of the 2 oldest dogs in recent years, 1 was fed primarily kangaroo & emu meat (from Wikipedia). Today, 50% of dogs are killed by cancer. Obviously something is very, very wrong.

We share this information with you so that your pets can enjoy the same great results. It’s also saved us a ton of money in vet bills & all the heartache that goes with an ill & suffering pet.

Debbie W, Founder & President
Yorkies & Friends Rescue, So. CA – yorkiesandfriendsrescue.org
Never underestimate the healing, life-changing power of food. – “Let food be your medicine & medicine be your food.” Hippocrates
When the diet is right, medicines are of no need, & when the diet is wrong, medicines are of no use. Ayurvedic proverb
Vaccines: Once you’ve administered the needle, you can NEVER change your mind. Study the facts, don’t live to regret it. There is NO safe vaccine, NO wellness after vaccines, & ALL vaccines cause brain inflammation & harm. The BEST protection is optimal nutrition for a healthy, strong immune system.

Disclaimer & More:  Please see “Hello, World!” post.

Start Here…

Welcome to our website.  We’re happy to share the best natural pet rearing information we’ve found so you, too can give your dog the best health and longest life possible. Wishing your beloved dog(s) the very best health and longest, quality life possible.

After reading this, go to the next post – “How to Give Your Dog Optimal Health.”

Disclaimer and More: I’m not a veterinarian nor a professional animal nutritionist.  What I share on this website is for informational purposes only.  It’s what I’ve learned from homeopathic/natural vets, animal nutritionists, and my own experience – both with my own dogs for over 37 yrs and over 17 yrs with rescue dogs.  Please check with a natural vet or health professional before making changes to their treatment or starting your pet on any new diet, especially if your animal has a health condition.  You alone are responsible for your pet and all decisions made on their behalf.  I personally use and recommend only homeopathic veterinarians; there is a BIG difference.  Homeopathy is able to eliminate chronic disease and vaccine damage, unlike conventional medicine.  Unfortunately, most vets who call themselves “holistic” are not truly natural.  Homeopathic vets are truly natural and homeopathy is able to cure conditions that are deemed impossible.  That’s been my experience and many others, as well.

These are the 100% natural vets we know of and recommend: Dr. Patricia Jordan in NC (http://dr-jordan.com),  Dr. Will Falconer in Austin, TX (http://vitalanimal.com/), Dr. Henry Kosteki in Reno, NV (http://homeopathicveterinarian.net/), Dr. Dee Blanco in NM (http://www.drdeeblanco.com/), Dr. Charles Loops in NC (http://www.charlesloopsdvm.com/, and Dr. Todd Cooney in IN (http://www.animalwellnesskokomo.com/index.php).  More are listed here on another wonderful natural health website:  http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/AnimalWellness/Vet-List.  And also here:  http://theavh.org/.  All of these vets can do phone/email consultations; it’s usually unnecessary for them to physically see an animal to treat naturally and restore health.  I’ve done it and the results were successful in every case.  My preference is to use a trained homeopathic vet as only homeopathy can clear vaccine damage and chronic disease.  This link shows where to find a homeopathic vet trained by Dr. Richard Pitcairn:  http://www.drpitcairn.com/referrals/anhc-referrals/.  He’s a world-renown homeopathic vet and now teaches others.  This one shows were to find a holistic vet in your area; be sure to check if they’re 100% natural as most are not: http://www.ahvma.org.  My experience has been that many vets who claim to be holistic really are not; if they recommend vaccines, drugs or chemicals, they are not a natural health vet.  This link assists you in evaluating a vet so you can find a 100% natural practitioner:  http://www.drpitcairn.com/referrals/evaluating-a-vet/.  This website will help you find a naturopathic veterinarian & explains this type of natural pet care: http://www.thewholedog.org/id51.html.